“I hope I die warmed by the life that I tried to live” Nikki Giovanni 

O️ne of the many reasons that we wanted to move to Busan was for the amazing hiking adventures in the mountain ranges that run through the city. We have tried our best to make weekends all about hiking, and we’ve had a blast exploring the mountain that is near our apartment – Jangsan Mountain. Seokbulsa Temple has been on our “must see” list since we arrived here, but it’s a little farther away from us and required some planning. It’s located on the ridge from Geumjeongsan Mountain to Baegyangsan Mountain, which is about a 45 minute trip on public transportation from where we live. The temple is located in the mountains and features large stone carvings of Buddhas in the rock surrounding the temple.

We took the subway to Mandeok Station and walked to the mountain from the train. We walked along a road up a very steep hill, until we came to a trail that would take us up the mountain. I can say with 100% confidence that this uphill climb kicked my ass – I haven’t gotten back into shape since quarantine and I was on fire! It was fun to explore the small town and gardens as we worked our way up the mountain. Eventually, we came to a small parking lot where drivers could leave their cars before the last stretch of the hike up to the temple. We met the nicest man traveling who asked us where we were from, and shared with us his bucket list dream of seeing the Grand Canyon! Unfortunately, Jeremy and I have never even been to the Grand Canyon so I think that was a bit disappointing for him after he found out we were from America 😉 We spent some time taking in the beautiful cherry blossoms before tackling the final stretch up to the temple.

We arrived at the gate of the temple to a gorgeous view of the Geumjeongsan Mountain. We quietly wandered through the temple’s grounds and took in the magnificent gates, statues, and views of the mountain side. It was truly humbling to be in the presence of something so great – and to take in the calm after the rigorous hike up the mountain. We walked up the steps into the temple and entered into a courtyard where we found buddhas carved into the surrounding rock – carvings that range from 20 to 40 meters high. Tourists can climb rocky steps to meditation caves and alters that are carved into the mountain, and it was here that Jeremy and I took off our shoes and sat in silence.

My mantra this week has been “you are exactly where you need to be” and this felt like a gift from the universe being able to sit in admiration and gratitude in an historic temple in the mountains. After weeks of working through my “Why The Fuck Did I Think I Could Do This Phase” I finally felt like I was coming home to myself and my life in South Korea. My guru Liz Gilbert writes about something she calls, “Quest Physics.” Which goes like this:

“If you are brave enough to leave behind everything familiar and comforting (which can be anything from your house to your bitter old resentments) and set out on a truth-seeking journey (either externally or internally), and if you are truly willing to regard everything that happens to you on that journey as a clue, and if you accept everyone you meet along the way as a teacher, and if you are prepared – most of all – to face (and forgive) some very difficult realities about yourself… then truth will not be withheld from you.” Or so I’ve come to believe.”

Elizabeth Gilbert – Eat, Pray, Love

This journey is far from over, it really has only just begun. But I feel the reckoning giving way to transformation, and for that I could not be more grateful. This temple was the most beautiful place to sit in gratitude and prayer, to thank both the universe and myself for how far I have come. For me, this marks the beginning of a new chapter.

We left the temple ready to explore the mountain more deeply, and to find the South Gate of the Geumjeong Fortress. There was more uphill hiking and we gained elevation quickly. The forest gave way to rocky peaks and the most magnificent views! Jeremy is quite the climber, something that I have never done. He helped me hop across boulders to the best views – until eventually encouraging me to try it myself. My head was all about it, but the moment I went to hop to another boulder, my body just FROZE. I’m not sure I’ve ever experienced such a firm disconnect from my body and brain before! I ran up to make the jump probably 20+ times before finally convincing my body that I was safe and able to do it. Jeremy was constant, patient, and encouraging and I eventually made the jump to the most stunning view. I’m forever grateful to have such a strong and supportive partner. 🙂

We eventually made our way to the South Gate and took in the fortress. After some photos and exploration, we stumbled upon a sign pointing to a Cable Car! We had read about the Cable Car being somewhere on the mountian, but had no idea we were so close! After a full day of hiking, we were excited to hop on the Cable Car down the mountain and to some food (and beer :)). We hiked another stretch and found the Cable Car station – we hopped on and took in the views as we traveled down the mountain and back to the city of Busan. We ended our day at our favorite brewery where they had a special brisket event but also featured 2 vegan entrees and a vegan dessert! We both had beer and two entrees each (we love to eat). It was the perfect end to the perfect day.

All My Love,

Lex