Whew – this one has been on the Bucket List for awhile! Haedong Yonggungsa Temple is renowned as Busan’s most beautiful temple. It’s easy to see why – the grounds are massive, and visitors can wander through forests and caves with beautiful shrines to the Buddha. The temple is also one of Korea’s only temples that’s on the coast! The rocky coast is stunning to behold – the blue ocean against the bright reds and blues of the temple, the green forest, and golden statues of the Buddha…it takes your breath away.
The temple isn’t far from where Jeremy and I live in Centum City, and this has been a destination I’ve been talking about for quite some time. After a week of non-stop rain, we were excited to get outside and explore somewhere new! We took a cab from our apartment, but there are plenty of public transportation options as well. We had a bit of a late start – so the 20 minute car ride vs. the hour long public transport trip was well worth it for us!
We arrived at the temple grounds and were greeted by a row of stone zodiac animals outside of the temple. These guardian deities are known to protect against evil spirits and bring good fortune and good luck. According to some reading outside of the temple, Haedong Yonggungsa is the first temple in South Korea to enshrine these statues on their grounds.
After walking the length of the winding path towards the temple entrance, we were greeted by the temple gate and a gorgeous 7-tier pagoda. All around the temple there are multiple shrines to different things – this pagoda is a “traffic safety prayer pagoda.” You can stop and pray here or provide an offering for good measure!
The Entrance to the Temple
We entered the temple gates and wound down rocky steps through the temple grounds. There is a big-bellied Buddha statue on your right as you walk in – I knew exactly what to do! I know that rubbing the Buddha’s belly is good luck, so OF COURSE I start rubbing right away. I yell, “Jeremy! Rub the Buddha’s belly for good luck!” I was met with laughs from not only Jeremy, but the other visitors. As I turn to the sign above this Buddha, I see the sign “Buddha of Granting a Son.” This is an important message…always read the signage, kids! Both Jeremy, myself, and a group of temple visitors had a good laugh at my ignorance, and we continued on.
At the base of the steps, the forest opened up to reveal the rocky coast and the stunning temple itself. I don’t care how many photos you have seen of this picturesque landscape, this moment will take your breath away. We climbed to multiple different viewing points for different perspectives and of course, different photo opportunities. This is such a fun place to explore – there are many winding paths, stone staircases, and outlooks to discover.
We climbed over the stone bridge towards the temple itself, and took in stone statues among a creak coming down the mountain and emptying into the ocean. Throw a coin into the statues’ stone bowl and make a wish! We crossed under a sign that read, “The Most Beautiful Temple in Korea” which made me smile. Of course, beauty is in the eye of the beholder and this is totally a thing to make tourists excited – I’m not embarrassed to say it worked. It made me smile.
The temple itself is a large, gorgeous structure covered in paintings of the Buddha’s story. His journey away from palace life and encountering suffering in the world. His leaving of his royal life and pursuing a solitary life in meditation. We enjoyed walking around the temple and taking in all of the paintings. I particularly loved the silhouette of the temple against the vast ocean – of course this place is holy. I felt the sacredness of the place and the moment in its entirety.
We wandered up a stone staircase through a wooded area and found the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. She was standing tall overlooking the ocean, surrounded by the lush, green mountain. The surrounding greenery was filled with tiny statues of the Buddha, I loved walking around and finding all of the sweet statues amongst the vines.
The Buddhist Goddess of Mercy
We wandered back down the stone steps to the main grounds, and took a final stroll through the temple grounds. We had such a beautiful experience at this temple, and it was well worth the visit. We arrived at the temple in the late afternoon after a slow Saturday morning, but the grounds open at 5:00am and it’s a popular place to watch the sunrise! I’m hoping to make the pilgrimage back to experience the sunrise soon – I’ll report back if I do!
Just a few of the stunning views and big smiles we experienced throughout the day
Overall, I believe this temple is worth all of the hype surrounding it. It’s also very close to Songjeong Beach – which we love! It’s a surfer beach with plenty of exciting options for dining and lounging. You can make a day out of it by visiting the temple, then walking an hour to the beach along a wooded trail or taking a bus. We ended up taking a bus to the beach and dining at a spectacular Thai restaurant! I’ll post more about Songjeong at another time – but I highly recommend heading there after you visit the temple!
I hope you all find something near your home to marvel at. I believe it’s good for the soul.
All my Love,
Lex
